Review: Maniac Publisher: Ideal Year: 1979 Tagline: The Fiendishly Clever Paranoid Electronic Game THAT TESTS YOUR SENSES IN FOUR DIFFERENT WAYS!
how we met
I met Maniac at the Kane County Toy Show last fall. I was intrigued by the cover when I first saw it, but I decided to wait until the end of the day before deciding whether to pick it up. It was like $8 or $10 – that’s a lot for an unknown electronic vintage game that can’t be tested!
My thanks to a BGG user who left a rating many years ago describing Maniac as “Ralph Baer’s simulation of a mentally ill parakeet.” I think that comment is what really put me over the edge into “buy.”
My thanks to Bill too. I swear he can fix almost anything old and electronic.
how it plays
Maniac is an electronic game. The game piece has four paddles and plays up to four players. If you want to play, simply settle yourself near one of the paddles.
When you turn Maniac on it will flash “88” a few times and then beep at you. This means battery levels check out and play begins soon. Maniac will cycle through four different types of challenges three times in a row each, which are considered rounds, so 12 rounds total before it starts again.
After each single round Maniac will point at each player in turn and give their cumulative score at that point. The first player to score 25 points wins!
A couple of notes on points:
A player can only earn a maximum of 2 points in a single round, and there are only 12 total rounds to make it through each challenge (4 challenges at 3x each), so play will always circle back to the first challenge again to find the 25 point winner.
Players score points independently. It’s not like the first person to be right gets the highest score. So ignore those jerks you are rubbing elbows with and just concentrate.
Now, let’s take a closer look at the four different challenges:
CHALLENGE #1: MUSICAL MANIAC In this challenge Maniac plays a series of tones and flashes a “HH” pattern. Then it goes silent at a random time. Your job is to hit your paddle as soon as you hear the silence. If you are within a quarter second, you get 2 points; half a second is 1 point (remember each challenge repeats 3 times in a row)
CHALLENGE #2: SOUNDS ABOUND In this challenge Maniac is going to offer you a series of random notes that you must count. When it’s done, it will start a slow, even beep. Your job is to hit your paddle when the number of beeps is equal to the number of notes. A correct guess is 2 points; one count off is 1 point
CHALLENGE #3: LOOK TWICE In this challenge Maniac shows you a pattern and then shows three additional patterns. If one of the three matches the first, hit your paddle! If none do, hit your paddle after the third pattern is gone to say, “None of these were right.” Scoring on this challenge goes by quarter second reaction for 2 points and half second for 1 point
CHALLENGE #4: YOUR TIME’S UP In this challenge Maniac plays a tone and your job is to count in your head how long the tone lasts. Then Maniac will beep and be silent. Your job is to hit your paddle when the silence has lasted the same amount of time as the initial tone. This one also scores based on being within a quarter second or half second
Then Maniac starts over! Challenges continue in rounds until one player gets 25 points. That player is the winner of Maniac!
how it went
I can’t wait to try Maniac with four players! But alas, it is not a great game for social distancing. Bill and I played last weekend when our internet went down and interrupted the movie we were watching.
Play is a little confusing at first because you have to remember how each challenge works as you go. But once you get the hang of it, it’s fun and easy! Bill realized at some point that he could try and fake me out and make me extra nervous so I’d hit the paddle prematurely. But that worked once, maybe twice. I blocked him out eventually.
My favorite of the challenges was the fourth one, where you lock in the time you think a tone lasted. It reminds me of one of my favorite reality TV shows, Solitary. If you are not familiar, this is a show where contestants are locked in pods and have no idea if it’s day or night. They have to withstand challenges where they tap out, but they are not told when others tap out. So they are playing against themselves. There is one episode where contestants are asked to tap their button when they think three hours have passed. Some tap out after an hour, some after five hours. It’s great.
Maniac was designed by Ralph Baer who is best known in tabletop gaming for creating Simon. The similarities are there, and I can honestly see why someone might prefer one over the other. But for me, I’d take Maniac over Simon any old day of the week. Maniac is fun and varied. Simon is how I spend a quarter to try to win a free personal pan pizza at Little Caesar’s when I’m a kiddo.
I did pretty well at Maniac. The fourth challenge was my best, but I wasn’t terrible at any of them. Bill had 21 points when I hit 25 and won! And Maniac celebrated my win with all of its innate charm (it pointed at me and beeped several times)!
play or pass
Play! Maniac is everything I look for in a vintage game. It’s easy to explain, it works very well, gameplay is varied, and I can see it appealing to a lot of different types of players. And it rings in my ears for around half an hour after play. Perfection.
I’m still quarantining, and I have this whole Saturday yawning before me. This post probably won’t interest many people, but I’m going to write about my Magic: the Gathering decks!
I used to play Magic: the Gathering with a lovely group of people in Minneapolis on a regular basis. About weekly, sometimes more, sometimes less. I played all the way up until I moved away. I miss them, and I miss playing the game.
I have played a few times since moving to Wisconsin. I tried Friday night magic in Lake Geneva. I played with some friends. I even made my game group play once. But I have not found the same appeal that we had with the old group. We played very casually. We didn’t always buy the new cards. We didn’t play by tournament rules or anything. We had ways to accommodate 6 players, 8 players. We would get through several games in a single night. It was magical. I miss them all.
If you are not familiar with MtG, it has five color types:
Red – a lot of direct damage, very fire-centric, can be very fast
Blue – very meddlesome, manipulates things on the board, steals
Green – creature-heavy, can create a lot of mana, provides a decent balance of offense and defense (if I had to take one color to an island I would probably choose green)
Black – dark creatures, destructive, can cause direct kills to other creatures
White – life-giving, defensive, not super powerful on offense but can be with a lot of creatures together
Colorless or artifact – I consider this a 6th group that has established itself as an option in addition to the above colors
Now onto a closer look at my decks*!! *in no particular order, just literally the order they are in my box
Deck 1 Black and Green Deck
This deck uses the destructive powers of black with the heavy creatures of green and the ability to trample in order to try and overwhelm the enemy quickly. This deck relies on large green creatures that let me deal damage or protect my creatures in an emergency, cards that let me search for the creatures I need, and cards that let me afford creatures quickly.
Deck 2 Red Deck
I don’t love a plain red deck, and it will be clear as we proceed. I didn’t play this one much. But variety is the spice of life. This deck has all the cheap direct damage that is at red’s disposal, some creature cards, and a couple of more rare cards that can give me an additional attack phase and a creature that does severe damage once it is leveled up.
Deck 3 The Gambling Deck (will require a coin on hand to flip, almost constantly)
Oh, not a favorite amongst the group. This deck is red and blue with a number of artifacts to boot. Now you might think I could call this a coin-flipping deck rather than gambling, but there are plenty of cards that just kind of say, let’s level the playing field and see what happens. Very fun. Does not last long because everyone attacks me as soon as they see the coin.
Deck 4 The Soldier Deck
This is a pretty straight-forward soldier deck. It consists of cards that allow me to play soldier tokens, creatures that buff other soldiers, enchantments that improve creatures. It can take awhile to get going, but then it gets fairly tough. The problem is when your group recognizes your deck and knows they have a limited amount of time to keep you in check.
Deck 5 The Decking Deck
If a player is unable to draw as many cards as needed at the beginning of their turn, they lose the game. One way to attack a player is to attack their deck directly by moving cards from their deck to their graveyard. This is called decking. If you think The Gambling Deck is annoying, decking decks are super annoying. This is not a particularly tough one, but it works. I just made it out of cards I had.
Decking decks almost always need team play to pull off a win. They often leave the player completely open to attack and draw a lot of attention.
Be careful about decking vs a black deck. They like having large graveyards.
Deck 6 The Five Color Deck (big creature version)
Five color decks are obviously challenging, plus there are so many different directions to go with one. So go big or go home, I say. This deck has the obvious things that allow me to create different colors of mana, and the rest is huge nasty creatures that I just hope to get on the field.
Deck 7 The Leviathan Deck
This is just a blue deck full of large, blue sea creatures. It has a card in it called Quest for Ula’s Temple that gets counters and then lets me put a Kraken, Leviathan, Octopus or Serpent creature into play. I don’t think I built the deck around this card, but I probably chose the creatures based on it since they are all in there. The goal is get big creatures and turn enemy lands into islands so I can islandwalk them into oblivion.
Deck 8 The Five Color Deck (classic version)
Your first draw is so critical in a Five Color Deck. This deck is very diverse and I really enjoy playing it. It does not have a big mechanism that it needs to work. It just has a variety of small, medium, and large cards that play with different colors of mana. It is simple.
Deck 9 The Cascade Deck
Cascade is an ability that lets you play a card and then draw cards until you get a nonland card that was cheaper than the card you played. You play that card for free and put the rest of the cards you drew on the bottom of your library.
This deck is five colors but relies most on red, green, and white. It has cards to increase mana early in the game, and then consists of fairly expensive cards that include Cascade along with creature cards that have haste. It’s a tough deck to get going, but when it works, it works.
Deck 10 The Polymorph Deck
I love to give my Polymorph Deck a whirl. It consists of just five things: land, cards that increase mana production like Fertile Ground, sorcery and instant cards that generate token creatures, huge expensive creatures that I do not intend to get the mana to play, and polymorph cards.
The Polymorph card allows me to destroy one single creature and reveal cards from my library until I reveal a creature card. That creature goes into play. Mass Polymorph allows me to exile all my creatures (hopefully a ton of tokens) and replace them with creatures from my deck at no cost. There’s no feeling quite like pulling off a devastating Mass Polymorph. You are practically unstoppable then. This is a fun deck.
Deck 11 The Tim Deck
The Prodigal Sorcerer card was nicknamed Tim based on the Tim the Enchanter character in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. It includes the ability to tap to deal 1 damage to target creature or player. So our group called that ability Timming. This was my Tim deck. It was feared and revered all over our dining room tables from South Minneapolis to Maplewood.
The deck is red and blue and consists almost entirely of Tim creatures as well as enchantments that let any creature Tim a creature.
Deck 12 The Artifact Deck
This is a pretty standard Artifact deck that contains several cards with Affinity for Artifact, meaning you pay one less mana for each Artifact you have in play. So it has Artifact Lands, Artifact Creatures, plain old Artifacts. It’s fun, but it’s not my favorite Artifact Deck. I haven’t pulled that one out of the box yet.
Deck 13 The Legendary Creature Deck
As implied by the name, this is a red and green deck that focuses on Legendary Creatures. I’m not sure why. Why not?
To make this deck work, I need lots of cards and lots of mana. So it has Howling Mines to draw extra cards, cards like Wild Growth and Lush Growth to increase mana production, and then a bunch of Legendary Creatures and their supporting cards. It’s similar to a lot of my decks where things have to really come together, but then I get big creatures. There is no shortcut in this, though. I have to pay full price for these Legendary Creatures.
I also only have one of each creature in the deck since playing a second of the same card would destroy the Legendary Creature. I can’t afford to risk having my hand polluted with duplicates.
Deck 14 The White Deck
There is nothing really special about this deck. No particular mechanism. It has cards that protect creatures, cards that grant life, cheap creature cards, and cards that improve those creature cards. This is a deck for a long game. It allows you to be defensive and protect allies, and eventually to make some large attacks and lead your opponents to wonder how they can get past your front lines to get at all the health you stored up.
I like playing white fine, but it’s not my favorite. When I would play the Age of Empires computer game, I would spend what felt like generations of my people in order to set up the best defenses possible before drawing in my enemy. But in MtG I get impatient and want to attack. So this is not a go-to deck for me. It does well in team play though.
Deck 15 The Proliferate Deck
This is another mostly-Artifact deck that is full of cards that add counters (whether they are +1 / +1 or -1 / -1) to creatures and artifacts. Then there are cards that allow me to Proliferate, meaning I can choose where to add counters to improve creatures for myself and my allies or increasingly damage enemy creatures.
This deck contains a lot of cards to increase drawing and mana production.
Deck 16 The Ally Deck
Lots of people have Ally decks because the Ally cards lend themselves to working together beautifully. Mine is five colored. Anyone who plays against an Ally deck knows that it has to be handled, and quickly. Many a time have I sat back and listened while my enemies decide how to triage the damage I am doing to them. The cards are cheap, so unless my mana shuts down with unlucky draws it’s a solid deck. My one kindness with it is to have the deck in card sleeves so the keen observer knows what deck I am playing immediately.
Deck 17 The Spirit and Arcane Deck
I threw this together when we ended up with a bunch of cards that are Spirit and Arcane. This deck is green and white. It is filled with Spirit creatures and Arcane spells, along with cards that make these spells cheaper. It’s okay. I kind of think of it as a poorer version of an Ally deck.
Deck 18 The Blue and White Mess with Everyone Deck
This is a fun deck to play and looking through it really made me want to play again. This deck is full of classic white life-giving and damage-negating cards, along with blue cards that manipulate what is in play. One of the beautiful cards in it, too, is Leyline of Anticipation which you can play instantly if it is in your opening hand, and it allows you to play nonland cards as though they are instants. That allows me to keep my mana handy to play interruption cards or, if nothing comes up, to play a creature card at end of turn of the player before me.
This is particularly a great deck for team play because I am unsummoning, countering, gathering life, preventing damage, causing opponents to pay more for their spells, all kinds of mean things.
I particularly enjoy the passive defense in this deck. I’m wide open, and you can attack me. But it’s probably going to hurt you more than it hurts me.
Deck 19 The Best Artifact Deck Ever
I love this deck. I don’t always play it because the play can take a long time. It involves tons of adjusting and playing and pulling back and reshuffling. Some turns I draw like 15 cards. It can get old for my fellow players, and I appreciate that.
This is a Blue Artifact deck. The goal is to get tons of mana and endless artifacts in play. Artifacts can give me no max hand size, cause opponents to lose life when they play creatures, give their creatures negative counters, etc.
One key component of this deck is the card Elixir of Immortality. True to its name, this card not only gives me life but allows me to shuffle my graveyard into my library. I can play this deck almost eternally. It’s tough to beat but the offense isn’t great, so I have to really focus on doing what I can to destroy my enemies. Otherwise this deck just wears them down, which isn’t fun.
Deck 20 The Direct Damage Deck
This deck is the only one in this list that I did not make. It belonged to my good friend Peter, and I admired it and feared it for a long time. He gave it to me one game night, probably for my birthday or some such occasion.
This is a green and red deck, and it’s a thing of beauty. Its focus is in creating incredible mana output. All of the land is Forest, and so there are Wild Growths and Fertile Grounds. Then there is a key card: Utopia Sprawl. When that comes into play you choose red since this is the only way to get red mana in the deck.
The rest of the deck is Creatures like Overgrown Battlement that give you a little defense, but also can be tapped to add more mana to your pool. The rest of the creatures simply allow you to untap a land. The idea is simple: get a few Forests out there that are stacked with extra mana cards that you can untap to create a huge amount of mana in your pool. Then play a comet storm and rain fire on your terrible friends. Comet storms allow you to switch targets and you can choose between creatures and players. This can be incredibly destructive.
Deck 21 The Elf Deck
I couldn’t find the exact rule, but I’m pretty sure there’s a rule that everyone must have an Elf Deck. Mine is my very first deck. I probably don’t need to explain an Elf Deck to you… it is full of elves.
This is a tough deck. Elf Decks start deceptively small, but they can get tough very quickly. My deck relies a lot on Blanchwood Armor to do really heavy damage. Ideally I can enchant a Silhana Ledgewalker so my enemies can’t really do anything about it. It’s my oldest deck, but I still enjoy it.
Deck 22 The Equipment Deck
I made an Equipment Deck. It’s not my favorite; equipment in general is not something I have patience for. The deck is okay.
This deck includes white creatures, a few that have particular powers related to equipment. Then there is just equipment galore! When you pack enough equipment onto a single creature it can get really tough, providing both offense and defense. It just takes awhile to get there.
Deck 23 The Bird Deck
Last but certainly not least is my black and white bird deck. I did make this deck around a single card: Soulcatchers’ Aerie. This card allows me to put a +1 / +1 counter on it whenever a bird goes to my graveyard from play, and all my birds get that counter. So I can have up to four Soulcatchers’ Aerie cards played if I am lucky enough to draw them all. So I am not opposed to my own birds dying. I got more where they came from.
This becomes annoying for my fellow players. Sometimes they are not obliging enough to kill my birds for me and I have to do it myself. That’s where black comes in. I have four Carrion Feeder creatures that allow me to sacrifice a creature to put a +1 / +1 counter on the Carrion Feeder. But that sacrificed creature will be a bird so I get the counter on the Aeries too.
This deck can be pretty tough. The beauty of it is that birds are cheap, and even if my mechanism does not come together or gets handled, an army of flying birds is not the worst thing.
That’s it!
That’s all my decks. The casualness of our play comes out in these descriptions. Creating MtG decks is game design with pre-defined options. While it’s not my style, I know and admire people that do MtG deck design with the strictest disciplines that MtG communities offer.
No matter where you fall on that spectrum of seriousness, if you played much at all you likely have some favorite decks and fond memories. I’d love to hear them. 🙂
Review: Chicken Out Publisher: Parker Brothers Year: 1988 Tagline: “Why Did the Chicken Cross the Road?” Game
how we met
I found Chicken Out for the first time for $5 at a flea market, but the seller would not let me open it and did not know if it was complete. I also didn’t totally want to carry it for the remaining miles that I would be wandering around. So that was a pass for me. The next time I found Chicken Out was for $2 at the local thrift shop. That’s more my speed, and I was happy to give it a whirl.
how it plays
Your goal in Chicken Out is to be the first player to get both of your chicken pawns safely to the FINISH space at the end of the road. You do this by lacing in and out of traffic using cards to move.
To begin play, shuffle the deck and deal four cards to each player. Players should not show their hand to any other players; bluffing is a key part of gameplay. The remainder of the deck goes face down as a draw pile.
On a player’s turn they simply play one card from their hand, do whatever is needed by the card, discard the card in a face up discard pile, and then draw to get up to four cards again.
There are four types of cards:
Number cards allow you to move one of your chickens that number of spaces (NOTE: the grassy edge of the road is not considered a space for movement, only for safety). You do not have to move your first chicken all the way to finish before starting your second chicken. Just be careful because chickens in roads are vulnerable and may need protection.
Chicken cards are played by placing the card face down in front of you and hollering, “Chicken!” There are three Chicken cards of each color in the deck, and only one Chicken card that is all four colors. When you place the card face down, you are threatening the chickens whose color you played, but other players do not know whether it is their color or not. (You can play your own color and your chickens remain safe.) Other players must decide whether to try and protect their flock or not. Not protecting a chicken whose Chicken card was played will send it all the way back to START!!!! These are the choices after another player plays a Chicken card:
Play a Safe card for one or each chicken. Making both of your chickens safe will require two Safe cards. If you only have one Safe card you must pick which chicken is protected if you have more than one on the board.
Play a Goose card and move one of your chickens to the next safe area on the board (the grassy lane). Similarly, moving ahead two chickens would require two Goose cards. These cards can only be played on an opponent’s turn.
Decide to Chicken Out and move your chickens backwards to the previous safety areas. You lose ground, but they are safe from further harm that turn. This is not a card but a decision that you can always make.
Ignore the threat and hold tight. Maybe your opponent was bluffing with their own color card, or maybe it is one of your opponents’ colors. But remember, if the Chicken card is your color then your birds are moved back to START!
NOTE: You can do any combination of the above as long as you have the right cards.
If you don’t have a movement card in hand and want to skip your turn, you can discard and draw another card to account for your turn.
The first player to get both of their Chicken pawns to the FINISH space wins Chicken Out!
how it went
Well, my copy was complete other than the insert that includes the instructions. Shout out to the A Board Game a Day blog who not only has approximately 13 bazillion reviews including some fun, vintage toys and games, but who also uploaded the instructions of Chicken Out for my desperate self to find.
That became important, too, because for some reason we did not all agree on which spaces of the game board were spaces in play. I figured if any of us were confused then others may be too. The instructions have a nice diagram showing example movement that should clear up any confusion and keep you off the grassy sides.
Apart from that rocky start gameplay was straight forward. And fairly fun too. We don’t shy away from “take that” mechanics so our chickens were flying back to start, occasionally from very late in play. At four players, we went through the deck around 1,800 times.
Playing a Chicken card face down without announcing the color means that bluffing is an undeniable part of gameplay. There is a bit of strategy with regards to how you decide to play, specifically when to protect your chickens or when to attack vs move. But a lot of your success will depend upon the cards you draw. Sometimes you have two options for what to do on your turn, but a lot of times you may only have one.
The game is not terribly exciting unless you choose not to protect your chickens. But you can always take that backward Chicken Out movement to continue inching forward. Chicken Out is just waiting to remind us of the seemingly implausible lessons from “The Tortoise and the Hare” fable.
John was doing well in our game, but I think his chicken pawns might have even left tracks on the game board for how often they traveled the last section before FINISH. He just kept getting sent back to safety.
I eventually won our play of Chicken Out. I had very lucky draws; I’m not sure any other player even touched the four color Chicken card. I also had good diversity in Number cards, Chicken cards and the protection cards. But I also did not scoff at moving back a few spaces to save my overall progress. I “Chickened Out” plenty of times. I also waited until one of my chickens was safely home before I let the other one start. Fewer targets just seemed wise. And it’s not like I was playing Dizzy Dizzy Dinosaur and could stack them three-high into one giant pawn! I definitely would have done that. At any cost.
play or pass
I think pass. Chicken Out is more middle-of-the-road for me because it’s easy to play and can be a fun press your luck game. But for all its simplicity, gameplay can take awhile. The few choices and limited card types that are constantly recycled aren’t enough to maintain amusement throughout an overly long play.
Review: Personal Preference Publisher: Broderbund Games Year: 1987 Tagline: You’re in the spotlight…
how we met
I played Personal Preference years ago but hadn’t seen it for quite a long time. Then I met the Thrifting Minions in the Milwaukee area! Courtney is a very keen fan of Personal Preference. She found a fabulous copy at thrift one day, and I was the only person that didn’t have one yet! So it was quite a treat!
I have never seen it at thrift myself, but if I had I would have bought it. You know I love a vintage party game with lots of pictures!
how it plays
Personal Preference is a party game where players take turns randomly drawing four items, secretly ranking them in order of their personal preference, and letting the other players guess what their ranking will be.
Players each get chips indicating the ranking 1, 2, 3 or 4. The active player is called IT, and when you are IT you draw four items in the category of the space your pawn is on. For start and other corners, choose any category you want. Place these cards in the four quadrants of the board. Then secretly rank them using the envelope provided and cards for this purpose.
Then players (including anyone on your own team) use their ranking chips to guess what your rankings are. This is more difficult than it sounds because if you are playing with standard rules then you are on a team and you have to agree on the ranking together. How well do you know the active IT player? Do you know them better than your teammate does?
Placing a ranking chip within the hard-to-see center circle means you are very certain and wish to “DOUBLE” the outcome of that chip.
When all players or teams have ranked their guesses at the active IT player’s preferences, the IT player reveals their ranking. Teams move their pawn forward one space for each correct guess and are not penalized for incorrect guesses. If the team chose to double on any guesses, right guesses get 2 spaces forward and incorrect guesses get 1 space backward! Don’t gamble, kids.
The first team to hit or pass the FINISH square wins! If more than one team passes FINISH in a single round then the one ahead wins, or play continues until one is ahead. That team wins!
how it went
I have played Personal Preference several times, and it’s always good fun. I have played both as part of a team and where I acted independently. Each has pros and cons.
On one hand, playing in a team results in compromise and imperfection which are both things we could learn to tolerate a lot more these days. You have to either fight for your rankings or concede. Discussions happen. Debates happen. Deals sometimes happen. And it ensures the IT player has no benefit in bluffing since their own team is guessing too. A certain Personal Preference purist I know would not have gameplay any other way than teams.
On the other hand, the first game I played where I acted independently I quickly went into the lead and never lost it. I listen and observe things, and sometimes I can make a pretty solid guess at rankings of even random things. I didn’t experience any false confidence in someone else’s rankings. But this type of play is a variation meant for fewer players, and that’s where it belongs.
Some individuals on BGG that have played Personal Preference a lot get to the point of lamenting the dated cards. As you likely know, I love dated cards. And while I have played multiple times, I have not worn my copy thin yet. So I am not one of these people.
However if you are interested in trying the game with updated cards, Thrifting Minion Melissa made some and posted the files to BGG back in 2014. She did a really great job too. The cards strike that chord of being general knowledge, but also specific and well-known.
During our initial play after getting this copy, I was teamed up with Bill. At one point I complained over deciding a ranking, “This is hard.” To which Bill replied, “Is it? Are any of them?” I assume he meant the great games that I constantly buy, review and keep or donate. I am very lucky to have a game group that is willing to play random vintage board games and enjoy them!
And we did enjoy Personal Preference. Sure it’s dated, but there is a timeless, inherent absurdity to comparing completely random things, like Nuclear Power Plants, David Letterman, chocolate chip cookies and cleaning house. It’s very fun to listen to the other teams discuss their rankings when you are the IT player. And you might even learn something about your friends! Important things like how they feel about unlisted phone numbers and acid rain.
I won our first game acting independently with four players. Bill and I won our first team game using the standard rules. Do I know my friends or what?!
play or pass
Definite play. Personal Preference captures the magic of a simple, fun party game with immense replayability. While the complaints of it being dated are valid, that can also add to the delight in ranking, particularly if you are around my age. And if not, updated cards are just a print and play away.
Review: Shark Tank: The Game Publisher: Cardinal Year: 2016 Tagline: Only the strong will survive.
how we met
Shark Tank: The Game is not some super find. My local farm store carries it on the shelves brand new. I have seen it at thrift numerous times. But the thing is, I really like the TV show Shark Tank. And eventually Bill started watching too when I had it on. Now when we eat dinner we sometimes throw on an episode. So with a couple of us prepared to compare the game to the television show, how could I say no?
how it plays
The goal of Shark Tank: The Game is very similar to the goal of Shark Tank: walk away with the most money.
Each player gets a SHARK coaster and corresponding chips. They also get an I’M OUT card and one million dollars in specific denominations. The SHARK coaster will explain your shark identity and, similar to another reality show board game Storage Wars, each SHARK has their own specialty to represent their expertise. You get bonuses if you win the honor of backing an idea in that area.
To set up for play, place 6 COMPANY CARDS face down in the middle of the table. The game will end when each of these COMPANY CARDS has been pitched. One player acts as the READER (this role will pass to the next player for each pitch). The READER will choose one of the face down COMPANY CARDS and read the title and description only. The company type and worth info must remain secret until after bidding ends, which takes place over two rounds:
Round 1: Wagers are made in order, clockwise from the reader. Players bid openly using their money cards face up.
Round 2: This round is secret, and players bid with their money cards face down.
The highest bid wins the company. All wagers that were placed are put at the bottom of the money deck, so those wagers are the real deal. At any point if a player does not want to bid, they simply place their I’M OUT card for the other sharks to see. They are out of bidding for that company.
The different companies have different values. When you win a company, roll the die to determine how much the company is worth. The result is represented by placing the corresponding chip on the card. If you are lucky enough to roll BLOCK BUSTER on the die then you are awarded the highest value and you get to draw another money card from the money deck.
If the company you win corresponds with one of your specialties then you get to draw a money card from the money deck!
You are allowed to swap companies with other players or even purchase them if you can strike a deal. Any time a company changes hands, the new owner must roll the die to determine the new value of the company. The original roll does not transfer.
Once all 6 company cards have been pitched and purchased, the game is over. Add up the value of all companies you have and half the value of your left over money. The player with the most value wins!
how it went
We played Shark Tank: The Game as a group of three one game night – two of us familiar with Shark Tank and one of us not.
You know I love a good theme. I love how much the game embraces the strong personalities of Shark Tank. There are frequent guest sharks on the show, but the main group has lasted a long time and has a special dynamic. Here is a little bit about my take on them based on no real research but just watching the show:
Robert: the man loves dogs. He loves them. He does not make a lot of offers but does a good job of keeping the action moving along by reminding the entrepreneurs what offers they have and who is out
Lori: she is referred to as the Queen of QVC, and I think her offers reflect that. She is looking for a gadget that looks good on TV and a lot of people will buy, but won’t necessarily make the long haul. Kind of everything wrong with the world if you think about it that way
Barbara: she loves making offers on food ideas and giving hugs to the ones she takes under her wing
Kevin: aka Mr. Wonderful. My absolute favorite. He is dry, pessimistic and sometimes predatory. The seemingly sharkiest of the sharks. At times he manipulates the whole room. He is also good at reminding entrepreneurs where they stand, but less objectively than Robert
Daymond: nice guy, not on as much anymore. He does not make a lot of offers, but he shows particular interest in clothing items, where he has a lot of knowledge
Mark: seemingly beloved by most of those who set foot in the door. He has a soft spot for humanitarian ideas and is quick to praise entrepreneurs on their hard work and clever marketing
All of the COMPANY CARDS in Shark Tank: The Game come directly from the show, or at least I recognized most of them. So that is kind of fun to reminisce. People get some wild ideas.
There are a few places where my rules leave out important details or are wrong:
Placing COMPANY CARDS face down: the instructions do not specify to do this, but the whole point of the bidding is that you do not know the value of the company. It is very important that they are face down.
Green is blue: My instructions repeatedly imply that green is the highest value you can roll, but it’s actually blue on every single card. Perhaps the publisher was blue/green color blind.
Reader role and its advantage or disadvantage at higher player numbers: The game is supposed to support 2-6 players, but the rules clearly state that the game includes 6 company pitches. The READER role can’t bid on the card they read (I’m assuming this, it’s not in the rules) because they have the secret info. So how do you balance 6 pitches between 4 or 5 players? Will the game balance if you add more pitches, or will everyone run out of money and hate it even more? If you allow the READER to bid, you still get more advantages to some players and not all.
Our play went pretty quickly, with just minor “Wait, what?” issues as we went through the rules. It’s easy to smooth those issues over if you game a lot, but it doesn’t mean they should be there. Bill won Shark Tank: The Game! Keri came in second, and I was a distant third. I probably bid way too much.
play or pass
Pass. I don’t think Shark Tank: The Game captures the spirit of the show, nor does it hold up as a very competent game. I appreciated the blind bidding round since it speeds up bidding, but it feels like a departure from theme. The rules are very poorly done. The game does not seem to have been blind play tested. It’s not painful to play, it’s just kind of nothing. For all of these reasons, I’m out.